The Quilotoa Loop, Ecuador

We left Quito on Thursday and jumped on a bus and headed south two hours to the small town of Latacunga, nestled neatly in the Andes. From here we decided to travel the Quilotoa loop, a 200km circuit that cuts through the Andes, past small indigenous villages and some of the most spectacular scenery Ecuador has to offer. Transportation on the loop is difficult due to its remoteness and requires a combination of buses that may or may not show, hitching and a lot of patience. After some debate we decided to take the trip with a local guide in a 4 wheel drive and avoid the hassle.

We set off early on Friday morning stopping at a small town called Pujilli before heading up and into the mountains along a narrow windy road. The sun was out and the scenery was breathtaking. Everywhere was so green. It looked a little like Snowdonia, only on a much grander scale. We could not believe this was Ecuador, it was not what we had expected at all. The mountains were all 4000m+ peaks, with farmland and fields steeply perched all over them which reminded us of a patchwork quilt. Dotted everywhere were tiny little huts with straw roofs in which the indigenous Quechan people live. They are incredibly small and basic but in the most amazing locations. We could not believe that whole families live in these tiny little dwellings.

We stopped frequently to take in the views (and some photos!) and on one occasion a whole family, a mother and her four small children came wandering over to our vehicle. They were in their traditional dress and looked quintessentially South American! It was like a picture from a guide book. After several hours we arrived at our destination for the day, the small village of Quilotoa. Quilotoa is next to one of Ecuador's most spectacular spots, the Quilotoa Crater, a huge dormant volcanic crater filled with an emerald lake. We checked into our acommodation, the Quilotoa Cabañas.... uummmh.. not as exotic as it sounds. Accommodation in Quilotoa is basic.. very basic. We had a rather damp room in a stone building with a stone floor. It contained a bed layered with 4 blankets and a small wood burning stove. We had a bathroom but there was no hot water and no toilet paper!

We spent the afternoon hiking around the rim of the crater (located at the top end of the village) which was tough at an altitude of over 4000 metres. About half way around the cloud came in and we decided to head back to the town to beat the rain... not so lucky...we arrive back at our accommodation and our freezing cold room absolutely soaking wet about 2 hours later!! In the village, there was a celebration going on and everyone seemed impervious to the rain and cold, dancing and drinking away to the same song over and over and over! Being the wimps that we are, we needed to get warm so we grabbed what wood we could and with the help of some boys at the hostel we got the little wood fire going in the bedroom. There we sat, huddled by the fire until dinner was served for us by the local family that own the hostel at 7.30pm. Unfortunately, that was to be the last of our fire and warmth... rain was running down our chimney and the rest of our wood got wet so it was a rather cold and sleepless night!

We woke early the following morning to find that our guides vehicle battery was flat so Ash spent the morning helping some locals push the 4*4 up and down the hilly road to try and jump start it... no luck! So we hitched a ride with the hostel owners into Zumbahua, the next town, to visit the local Saturday market. There were people and animals everywhere and in one area, sheep were being slaughtered and butchered to order... you can imagine Bi's disgust ha ha! After an hour wandering, we hitched a ride back to Quilotoa in the back of a local's Utility Truck. The locals approach you all the time to ask if you want ride so they can earn a few dollars. It was quite an experience, piling into the back of the utility truck with other locals, holding on for dear life and riding in the open air along a very bumpy dirt road!

Back at Quilotoa we met up with a local guide who led us along the next part of the loop... a 17km hike to Chugchilan. The weather was good which made for a spectacular views as we walked over hills and through villages. We even had to do a little climbing through a canyon, which was blocked with water. We were very glad to have a guide as the trail would have been quite difficult to follow on our own! After 4 hours we made it to Chugchilan and it was just in the nick of time. The weather changes so quickly in the mountains and the heavens suddenly opened. We made a quick dash into the Cloud Forest Hostel, our destination and were provided with a hearty lunch. Our poor guide had to make the 4 hour journey back to Quilotoa in a heavy thunderstorm so we tipped him well.

We were pleased to see that while on the walk, our guide had managed to get a new battery for his 4*4. We began the very wet and bumpy journey along the last part of the loop and back to Latacunga through the storm. The roads along the loop are completely unmade and full of pot holes and stones so we had to travel quite slowly. The mountainous roads here are also prone to landslides and there were many areas where we had to drive around debris which had slid down onto the road in the rain. We suddenly felt a little vulnerable. After about 3 hours of bumping our way along the windy road, some locals waved down our vehicle and shouted 'NO PASE!' A landslide had totally blocked the road ahead which if unpassable meant that we could not get back to Latacunga.

With fingers, legs and about everything else crossed we continued along the road in hope that we could pass the landslide in the 4*4. It was full of suspense!! After about 45 minutes we came to the landslide and it had indeed totally wiped out the road. However, a tractor and a small army of locals were there digging and pulling vehicles across the mud and debris. It was quite a sight! When it came to our turn, Guillermo, our guide, put the locks on the wheels and put his foot down so we could get over. We were the only ones to make it without help from the tractor, and we cheered our way across woohoooo! We were going to make it home for the night. We felt sorry for all of the buses and trucks that looked to be stuck on the road for the night, unable to pass the landslide and unable to turn around on the narrow road.

After another hour or so, and a brief stop in the small town of Sigchos for a drink, we continued our way back through light snow and finished the loop with great views of Cotopaxi volcano. We made it safely to our hostel in Latacunga at about 7pm, grabbed dinner and then fell exhausted into bed!