Lake Titicaca

On Thursday, after getting a LOT of washing done, we took a bus 7 hours south to Puno. Puno is a large town on the north shore of Lake Titicaca, which situated at 3,800m is the highest navigable lake in world. We stayed in a little homestay called Kusillo's Posada, run by the most charming lady, Jenny. She greeted us with a big kiss and hug everytime we entered her house... we felt properly mothered! She also cooked an amazing breakfast. We spent the afternoon wandering around Puno which is not a pretty town but it was still interesting to absorb the local culture.

On Friday we were up early to spend the day on Lake Titicaca. We boarded a small boat at the port and headed 30 minutes to our first stop, the Islas Flotantes (the Floating Islands of the Uros People). These people live on islands made by cutting and layering the totora reeds that grow in the lake. The islands are only two metres thick and bolted to the lake floor with ropes and eucalyptus posts! The houses on the islands are also made from the same reeds and every two weeks they have to physically lift each house and replace the reed foundations beneath because they rot! We were invited into one of the houses and it was simply one room with blankets, a small tv and a little light which the owner proudly turned on by attaching two wires together. All the cooking is done outside and as far as bathroom facilities are concerned, well, there are designated areas on each side of the island that they rotate each month to keep the balance! The Uros people have wider noses and larger hearts and lungs as a result of living at high altitude with less oxygen. They do suffer from rheumatism from walking barefoot on the damp reeds but they try to combat this by eating the roots of the reeds. We were offered a taste but respectfully declined! We took a reed boat ride through the floating islands and were entertained by some little Uros children in full traditional dress who had come along for the ride.

From the Floating Islands we headed 2 hours further out into the Lake to visit the Isle Taquile. We didn't travel a great distance (34km) but the boat moved at about 4mph so it took a long time! That said, it made for a very tranquil journey sitting on the roof of the boat soaking up the sun. On Taquile we walked around the island amongst pre-Inca terraces and small ruins and saw the unusual practice of males knitting. Apparently it only occurs on this island, but they are recognised by UNESCO as being some of the foremost weavers in the world. After a dismal lunch overlooking the lake (did we expect anything less?!) we boarded our boat and returned to Puno in time for the sunset.

On Saturday, we were again up early and took a 3 hour bus across the border into Copacabana, Bolivia. We were so happy and relieved to be on a proper tourist bus for the border crossing which was much smoother and less frightening than the one we experienced from Ecuador to Peru! No smuggling activities on board this time! Our first few hours in Copacabana were spent trying to find somewhere decent to stay. Our pre-booked hotel did not remotely live up to the review in the guidebook so we quickly left and checked in and out of 3 other hotels before finally finding somewhere acceptable. Accommodation here is pretty basic, dark and dingy, but then it is only 1 pound 50 a night!

Copacabana is a fairly small, rustic and slightly touristy town located on the southern shore of Lake Titicaca at 3,800m. It is the gateway for getting a boat to the Isla Del Sol. In the afternoon we wandered the town, visited the beautiful moorish cathedral and witnessed one of the most bizarre rituals we have ever seen... the colourful Benediciones de Movilidades or the Blessing of Automobiles. The vehicles were lined along the front of the cathedral and adorned with flowers. The priest visited each vehicle one by one, read prayers and sprinkled holy water over the whole car (inside and out) and even under the bonnet. The owners then poured coke, wine and beer all over the vehicle (we are told as an offering) and had photos taken with their cars before setting off firecrackers around the vehicle. This happens at 10am and 2.30pm every day! In the evening we had a nice meal and returned to the hotel where Bi had to sew up the holes in Ash's socks. We can't buy new ones because they don't make 'em big enough for his feet out here!

Today we took another (slow) boat 2 hours to the Isla Del Sol. The island is quoted as one of the highlights in Bolivia, and is the fabled birthplace of the Inca Empire. We were dropped off on the north side of the island and after fumbling around to find the right path, we took a stunning 3.5 hour, 11km, 4,000m high walk across to the south side of the island where we caught the boat back to Copacabana in the afternoon. The island lived up to its reputation and was by far the most beautiful place we have visited on Lake Titicaca. The views reminded us of the Cornish coastline in places and in others, the Greek Islands. We stopped for a hearty lunch of bananas and crackers at the highest point of our walk (we'll never want to see cream crackers again after this trip!) and took in the views. Bi suffered a little with the altitude on some parts of the walk today and was breathing like Darth Vader so we took it easy. It's weird that the effects come and go instantly and without rhyme or reason. We returned happy and a little sunburned. Tomorrow we take a public bus (gulp!) 3.5hrs to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia.